day 83 - 57 km
Pieve del Cairo - Trino
We drive away from our lodging at a good nine o’clock and already see the dark skies, a beautiful rainbow shows us the way to Pieve del Cairo where we parked the tree bike opposite the town hall yesterday. The door of the town hall is open, so I step inside with Daan with a birthday tree and a forest book. What an enthusiastic mayor they have here in Pieve del Cairo, Niccolo Capittini is his name. He really thinks it is a great project and tells us that they are going to plant the little tree with the children next to the school. He also tells us that the day before yesterday, July 24, was the day that we humans have already consumed “the energy” of this whole year, the so-called “Earth Overshoot day. Painful right? We take and photo in front of City Hall with the tree bike, and several people come to get a free birthday tree. Top. Daan, Yka and I get on the bikes and ride towards Mede which is nine kilometers away, not along the river for a while but through the flat agricultural area with corn and many rice fields. Here too most of the birds fly up when the tree bike passes. The rain does not stop and it is remarkably chilly at twenty degrees for the end of July. We bravely continue cycling even though we would much rather have sunshine. But it is very nice for the tree bike. It is Saturday and it is quiet on the road. Completely soaked, we have a warm cup of coffee in Candia Lomelina, where we take a picture in front of the closed town hall. According to the weather forecast it will rain for another hour or so. Jacket on and on we go. Fortunately, it gradually clears up a bit. As I cycle through the landscape I wonder how best to write down ‘observing the landscape’? I like to read the landscape as a “gesamtkunstwerk,” as an interplay of natural forces and human activities. I could of course focus the observations on this: how do the two relate and interact? Natural forces and laws on the one hand, and human activities and influence on the other. Man, of course, evolutionarily speaking, has only just arrived, about two hundred thousand years, an adolescent we are still as a species, but our influence is hugely explosive and burdensome to all our fellow earthlings, many species are dying out. But I don’t want to describe all that is going wrong, my concern is to find openings that can accelerate the rebalancing so that we humans become far-reaching rather than burdensome. But how do you do that? One important observation is that I don’t think it’s down to ordinary people. They just want to do well. At least they care about their own environment, we see that everywhere. It’s much more in the systems. A good example is agriculture: every day we see the complex system of supply and demand, farms, agribusiness, financing systems and government policy. Most of the landscape, especially here in the Po Valley, is cultivated and in use as farmland. That produces beautiful cultural landscapes but probably there is also a big culprit there in terms of man-made imbalance with nature. I am not concerned with pointing out what is going wrong and how to do better. Who am I to do that. What I do want to make visible is that a lot of people have nature’s best interests at heart and do not want the current large-scale demolition at all. Surely it is downright idiotic to treat the only habitable planet we know, which is so unique, the way we are doing now. How stupid can you be? And that’s why, against all odds, we are cycling 5000 kilometers, in a circle through Europe, with a tree on the back of our bikes, handing out birthday trees. Will you also plant a tree on your birthday? Can our circle become an example of how things could be done? So I muse as we cycle into Casale Monferrato, the final location for today. It is a good two hours and we decide to cycle on to Trino, another fifteen kilometers or so. It is a beautiful route on the embankment right along the Po River. And even though the gravel doesn’t ride very well, the scenery is beautiful and the weather has cleared up. The tree bike especially with starting up makes more grinding noises by the day, what is that? When we arrive in Trino we place the tree bike with one wheel on a curb and I discover that the universal joint, the transmission from the motor to the wheels, has damage. It looks like grease is missing and at the bar across the road someone has a grease gun. Less than ten minutes later, I’m under the tree bike applying grease to the grease nipples. And yes, thankfully, it seems to help. I am super happy. We do have a garage check it out on Monday, as we need to be able to cross the Alps safely, and then we can stop by the town hall here in Trino, which is right on the line. We place the tree bike at the town hall in advance and drive the car together to our accommodation in Salice-Terme, almost an hour’s drive from Trino. While Richard drives, Yka and Daan pick out the photos suitable for Polarsteps and when we get home we start cooking right away so we have a little evening left. Tomorrow we move to the next location beyond Trino. Sleep well.
Sun Jul 27 - day 84
It worked out again. We are at the next location in Castagneto-Po, south of Chivasso, and south of our line. In just under a week we will cross the border into France. The mountains got a lot closer today. While driving, the mountain range on the horizon to our right becomes more and more imposing. It is a beautiful contrast to the flat Po landscape. After packing everything, giving the trees extra water, we left our house with garden in Salice-Terme with both cars and trailer a little after ten o’clock. First to a charging point to recharge the e-camper, then on to Trino to supply the tree bike with saplings and extra water. We planned to lay out the map and hand out saplings on this Sunday but it’s too quiet in Trino around noon. Everyone is inside somewhere, but where? We drink coffee and decide to drive on to our new location, about forty kilometers southwest of Trino. The tree bike stays nicely in the shade next to the town hall. It is nice and warm again today. While riding through the landscape, it is striking how it is intersected with highways, provincial roads, railroads and waterways. Together with the alternation of small towns and industrial buildings around them, this makes the flat Po landscape with its many corn and rice fields somewhat cluttered for the perception, at the same time it is of course a fascinating work of human ingenuity. The moment the hills emerge they seem to radiate tranquility, partly because they contain a lot of forest. The hills have less dynamism, it works pleasantly and also organizing. The new lodging is fine again, here on the south side of the Po in the first hills we encounter after Slovenia. We have crossed the Po River at least ten times in the past few days. Everyone feels the excitement of the Alps we have to cross, how will it go? Of course we have had some practice in the Czech Republic, Austria and Slovenia, but this is yet another category. Tomorrow we go back to Trino to visit the municipality, a garage and then we cycle this way. It will be a short cycling day because we already did part of this yesterday. It’s quiet in the house, it almost seems like a very ordinary Sunday afternoon. But we know better!